Monday, September 14, 2009

Wait..we have to study?











These were the exact words uttered by my peers as we awoke on Monday morning. The first weekend, devoid of any papers or exams, was what we expected every day to be like. It was only when we shuffled into the Pantheon Institute that we faced the cold reality that we were actually here for business, and not for pleasure. Syllabi were handed out, books were purchased (my wallet went into cardiac arrest at the amount), and presentations were assigned. Within the first week, all of us began to slowly assimilate into Roman daily life. Supermarkets, traffic, and locals were all navigated with equal amounts of trepidation and confidence. Instead of culture shock, many of us felt wallet shock, as the burden of daily expenses made us acutely aware of our spending (probably a good thing in the long run). It was immediately made clear that cooking at home was infinitely more sensible than going out for dinner, as a meal for six in our dome cost as little as 3 euros.

Our first class trip took us to the Villa Giulia, the National museum of Etruscan art. Originally the summer retreat of Pope Julius II, the Villa Giulia now houses an extensive collection of Etruscan art, ranging from the Apollo of Veii to the Eurphronios Krater, an immaculate vase that the Met paid a million dollars for to highlight their ancient art collection. Following negotiations with Italy (the vase was stolen by tombaroli, nastier versions of Indiana Jones) the vase was returned and now rests in the Giulia. It was one of the more interesting museums I've been to, what with it being the Pope's residence and all.

Up next was the Ara Pacis of Augustae, and the subsequent museum it is housed in. Literally meaning "altar of peace," the structure was commissioned by Augustus to commemorate his reign of peace along with his return from campaigns in Gaul. Constructed completely of white marble, the altar is decorated with several friezes that borrow from the panels on the Parthenon, another example of the Roman affection for Greek design. The altar itself is housed in a building done by Richard Meier, an American architect and proponent of the Minimalist modern style. The clash between old and new is readily apparent, and Romans have both hated and loved the new structure since it was built in 2006.

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